How to build a tote rack from 2x4s
A tote rack holds storage totes like drawers: each one slides in on two runners and hangs by its lid, so you can pull out the bottom tote without unstacking the rest. Here's how to size one for your totes and build it with the ladder method in an afternoon.
Example: 3 × 2 rack for HDX 27 gallon totes on casters, 5' 10-1/8" wide and 3' 5-3/4" tall, about $204 in materials.
What you'll need
- 2x4s for the legs, runners and rails (2x3 or 2x2 for small totes)
- 1x4 for diagonal back braces on rolling racks
- 2-3/4" star-drive construction screws and 3-1/2" structural screws
- Optional: 3/4" plywood for a work top and 4" locking casters
- Saw, drill/driver, tape measure, square, two clamps, safety glasses
Step by step
1. Measure your totes
Measure one tote with the lid on, at the widest point: length, width and height, plus how far the lid overhangs the body on each side. An HDX 27 gallon Tough Tote is about 28-1/2" × 19-5/8" × 15-1/4" with a 1" lid overhang.
Everything else follows from these numbers, so measure twice.
2. Work out the spacing
Legs apart = tote body width + two runners + 3/8" of sliding room per side. For 27 gallon totes and 2x4 runners that's 21-3/8"; the lid then overlaps each runner by about 5/8".
Row spacing = tote height + the gap you want above each lid. With a 1" gap, rows are 16-1/4" apart, and the spacer block between runners is row spacing minus the runner height: 12-3/4".
The first runner goes gap + lid rim height below the top of the legs: 3-1/4".
3. Build the first ladder
Lay two legs side by side, mark 3-1/4" down from the top, and screw the first runner across both legs at the mark with two 2-3/4" star-drive construction screws per joint. Keep the legs parallel.
Set the spacer blocks under the runner, butt the next runner against them and screw it on. Repeat for every row, then add a bottom cross piece on edge, flush with the leg ends.
4. Build the rest of the ladders
End ladders have runners on one side only; middle ladders get runners on both sides. Build each new ladder on top of the first one so every runner lines up exactly.
5. Join the ladders with rails
Stand the ladders upside down, space them 21-3/8" apart with a scrap gauge, and screw a 2x4 rail flat across the leg ends at the front and back (3-1/2" structural screws, two per leg). Flip the rack and add the top rails.
Check that both diagonals of the front are equal before the last screws go in.
6. Brace the back
A ladder rack is strong up and down but can rack sideways into a parallelogram. A diagonal 1x4 across the back legs locks it square. It's essential on casters; a rack screwed to wall studs is held square by the wall.
7. Add a top and casters
Screw a 3/4" plywood top to the top rails to turn the rack into a workbench. For a rolling rack, mount locking casters under the bottom rails where each leg meets a cross piece.
8. Load the totes
Slide the totes in with the lid riding on the runners. Keep the heaviest ones on the bottom row. A little paraffin wax on the runners makes them glide.
Questions
Can I build a tote rack with only 2x4s?
Yes. For 27 and 38 gallon totes the legs, runners and rails are all 2x4. Only the optional back braces use 1x4, and the optional work top is plywood.
How much weight can a 2x4 tote rack hold?
Each tote hangs on two 2x4 runners screwed to the legs, which is plenty for a loaded 27 gallon tote (HDX rates them around 75 lb). Keep heavy totes low and anchor tall racks to the wall.
Should the totes be flush with the front of the rack?
Flush looks cleaner; letting them stick out an inch makes them easier to grab. The configurator lets you choose either.
Do I need to pre-drill?
Not with self-tapping star-drive construction screws (SPAX, GRK and similar). Pre-drill for the caster lag screws.